The VFD is nice, but it only displays frequency, not spindle RPM (which would be wrong anyways because of the belt pulley ratio can change).
From eBay I picked up a LED tach display with Hall effect proximity switch. I mounted in a plastic case. A little bracket for the pickup unit and 12V adapter completed the picture.
Here are a lot of little small tips that came in useful when setting up the Hitachi WJ200 VFD.
You cannot enter specific motor parameters without unlocking them first. Go to B037 and set it to “00”.
If your motor is running backwards swap two leads on the motor.
To use the panel to set the VFD speed you must be editing F001, then use the up and down keys.
The drive initially comes set as constant torque. Before adjusting any torque settings try using the drive as is. If more torque is required, then adjust settings.
If your motor has too much whine, adjust the carrier frequency B083. Try with 5Khz, and if that does not fix it, try 6kHz.
To stop the motor quickly, try reducing the deceleration to 2-3 seconds. If this trips the VFD or is not stopping fast enough, you will need a braking resistor.
Use a 1K 2W linear pot for speed control. This is connected to H, L and O connectors on the VFD. The H connector goes to the LOW side of the pot, and the L connector goes to the HIGH side of the pot (yep, its backwards). O goes to the wiper. To use the external speed control, you must set parameter A001 to 00. Pages 3-12 and 4-6.
To use an external run stop switch, it cannot be a momentary switch. First of all you must connect the jumper L to PLC. Then you use a switch between P24 to 1 (FWD). Turn the switch on, it runs the motor, turn the switch off, the motor stops. You must modify parameter A002 to 01 to enable using an external switch. Page 4-16
Set the max frequency by using A004.
Set the deceleration time by F003 parameter (in seconds)
Great day today. I finally received the proper poly V belt (third attempt) and the Hitachi VFD has arrived.
I chose the Hitachi VFD over the other ones out there because it is a well known and reliable brand, plus it has a easy to understand manual. My Huanyang VFD that I use on my CNC router to quite a while to set up – the translation being very poor.
I purchased a the Hitachi WJ200-022SF VFD from DrivesWarehouse for $338 USD, with free shipping. This is a sensorless vector drive that will give me full torque at only 6Hz. This means I will have full torque at about 75rpm – nice, just what I was after.
My angular contact bearings cost me well over $500. Since it wont be easy to lubricate them, I will be using some kind of grease.
Well, like every oil thread out there, lots of opinions abound. Here is the most popular:
Here are the Mobil and DOW product manuals.
https://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/80-3256.pdf
http://www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/english/files/sc_grease.pdf
The winner? Kluber. Why? Most everyone either loves it or will argue against it because it is too expensive. But really, I am only lubricating two bearings, perhaps once every year or two.
In order for a pulley to be mounted on the RF45 spindle, a bit of work had to take place:
Here are some pics.
The original hollow shaft.
New extension welded on and ground
Roughed to size for threads, then finished with vertical shear tool
Threaded
Ready for assembly with sleeve and N-08 bearing retaining nut. Sorry no pictures of making the sleeve. I made it from a section of 3″ round mild steel stock. It is bored about 1 thou over so it slides on and off easily.
As part of my Rung Fu Mill RF45 conversion to Variable Frequency Drive, I need to make a couple of two stage pulleys that use poly V belts. These pulleys will allow me to get the full range of RPM from bull low to 6000RPM.
The spec for the Poly V belts is quite specific. I had to grind a specific 80 degree HSS bit. A separation of .092″ and a depth (in radius) of .080″. I did a lot of practising to get the feel and RPM right.
The pulleys were made from a block of aluminum. Here is my process:
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